Quick Though: Stefano Pilati & Couture

Click on Image to Enlarge)

So congruent with my post previous to this one, I was praising Pilati and his work at Yves Saint Laurent (YSL). And I realized why won't they let him venture into couture? Isn't that a pleasant idea? He clearly has control of the fabrics with his minimalism structure pieces and sharp lines. If he wanted to, he could rival Nicolas Ghesquiere's Balenciaga pieces. (Which reminds me, I'll do a comparison between YSL and Balenciaga in a future post).

I think Stefano Pilati would be a great couture-r. I believe since he's still only been the director for a short period, the big bosses still wants to see if he's able to carry out more editor's top favorite seasons. If so, then they'll give him reign to do couture. Also, the world of couture is expensive and not as lucrative as pret-a-porters, but I think with recent collections, YSL's income should stabilize and give Pilati a chance. I imagine Valentino but more formal and futuristic. No? Valentino has that minimalistic decadence, but it's often feminine and soft, in both structure and color.

But if I was given the chance to decide whether Pilati should be in charge of that, hands down Pilati has my vote.

Source: Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2008 | Balenciaga Fall 2008

Halston Women Fall/Winter 2008: All Flop and No Flip

"Halston didn't provide the big bang many in the fahsion industry were yearning for. Zanini didn't even give a bang. Many were left feeling as though it was just another fashion show on the schedule. After I blogged yesterday, even with his statement that he recognizes that archives can prove to be dangerous, he fell into the hole he thought he recognized and tried to stay clear from. The pieces paid homage to Halston but did nothing more. It was like Gianfranco Ferre's Spring collection that his in-house designers did after his death.

The collection was bare minimalism, perhaps too minimalistic. The color didn't excite the viewers but just reminded the people of the weather outside, drabby and stale. The fluidity were like a wilting flower instead of lively like that of Lanvin Spring 2008. Some of the pieces seemed to swallow the models instead of the models commanding the clothes.

Even with certain pieces that were clear Halston, like the long soft skirts, but there was nothing that screams Zanini and his influence. Perhaps working with Versace for so many years as Versace's first designer, he's underestimated the clients' willingness to let him take the reigns however he wish.

With this in mind, more pressure is on Alessandra Faccinetti and what she's going to do with the house of Valentino.

See rest of collection: Halston Women Fall/Winter 2008

Impulse Thoughts

UN.
With Lanvin Spring 2008 having great praise for the grecian, flightly and airy collection last season that everyone adored, and also praised by many buyers of chain stores, be sure to keep a look out to who will piggy-back ride to boost some profits.
Deux.
For Balenciaga Spring 2008, Nicholas Ghesquiere, designer, raised the bar and shone the light on structure. There's definatley a push towards what is new, what is the future. It's interesting to see the insights that will either support Ghesquiere's outlook or inject the market with a new "ooh la la."
Trois.
Spring was flower power raised to the max, or in mathematical connotation, flower^infinity. However, it wasn't just regular flowers but more artistic inspired flower prints. They were suggestive but the petals weren't defined. Will the "flower prints" be carried over to fall?
Quatre.
Spring of art-inspired things, a big trend for Spring 2008 was paint-splattered textiles like the dresses from Dolce & Gabbana 2008.

Basically, keep a look out for those who will mimic the top houses' designs and construction in the spring, and keep a look out for the innovative new leaders. There's been a huge injection of new talents and reincarnation of houses, like Bill Blass. There's also new designers taking over notorious houses, like Valentino and its new artistic creator Alessandra Facchinetti. Fall is definately a season of changes, big changes. There's a lot of things going on in regard to changes not within the fashion industry but in the economy. I'll be sure to highlight what I see the best I can. Stay tune and do look out for huge changes!!