Tuesday, February 12, 2008

UK Times: Three models banned from fashion show in Madrid for being too thin

“Their health might be OK, but their appearance is extremely thin"

According to UK's Timeonline, three models were banned from Madrid fashion week. I've never really followed Madrid fashion week but I remember they're big on women's rights. Just last year they attacked Dolce & Gabbana ads for advocating women abuse.

But as fashion weeks are here, New York's Fashion week was last week, and this week is London's and Madrid's, followed by Paris and Milan, the issue of model sizes are talked about once again. The New York Times also talks about the higher number of skinny models in NY Fashion Week.

For me, whenever such articles are raised, the media never highlights the models or pictures of the models that are annorexic. That information is always disclosed so the public have to conjured that society taboo image of the worst case scenario ever. You know, the image where the girl's rib cage and piercing through her chest, sunken stomach, big bug eyes, basically a skeleton.

I do have a problem with promoting annorexic where the individual is clearly sick and his or her health are in danger. But to a certain degree, I don't think the media understands that there's a shift in style and culture interest in the fashion industry. What culture is that? The underground, young, glamour culture. In a world where obesity can be considered an epidemic, those who stay young and fit are those that work hard for it. Fat is no longer incorporated with health, but a stepping stone to obesity (insert worst case scenario of an obese individual). You know, the man that sit on his couch, whose skin is grafted with the couch because he hasn't moved in ages.

I digress. This new culture doesn't suppport annorexia. The young skinny boys do not intentionally starve themselves to obtain this physique. Guys and girls are more health concious and they do not want the threat of heart attacks and respiratory problems to shorten their lives. I don't know about you, but I've scene models eat and they do not hold back. The only time where their eating habits are more controlled are during fashion week and that's only because they go in for fitting. Once that fitting occurs, the models have to make sure the fitting do not fluctuate since that will take extra time to fit during the fashion shows; time that the designers and house do not have.

The girls are just build differently. As much as people know over weight people, there's average people, and then there's those that are naturally thin. The fashion industry just has a new muse, a new group of individual's whose bank account are willing to spend on clothes that are tailored and form-fitting, not stretchables.

I'm not disagreeing with the articles, I just think when such an article is so one-sided, it's important to expose all aspects of it instead of just attacking an industry that problem dresses the writer in his Armani suits.

Read UK Times article: Three models banned from fashion show in Madrid for being too thin
Read NY Times article: The Vanishing Point

Thursday, February 7, 2008

Marc Jacobs Probe, and not the good kind

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WWD.com is reporting, "Marc Jacobs International is caught up in a bribery scandal involving its favorite show space, the 69th Regiment Armory — and is the subject of a criminal investigation as a result."

WWD then continues and says, "The former superintendent of Manhattan's 69th Regiment Armory, James Jackson, has been indicted on charges of demanding more than $30,000 to allow the space to be used by the designer and for other events. Marc Jacobs International allegedly made payoffs to Jackson through the designer's public relations firm, KCD Public Relations, to reserve the national historic landmark on key dates, New York State Attorney General Andrew Cuomo said at a press conference Wednesday."

WHOA! I'm studying business ethics right now and it's up my alley. Though this case may seem harmless, it shows the subjective AND objective regulations in business transactions. Marc Jacobs is cooperating with the investigators, however, the house itself may be under questioning.

Marc Jacobs sure always deliver a headline, whether it is through his exhibition, clothes, or scandals. This my friend is what they mean by there's no such thing as bad publicity, not that he needed anymore.

The rest of the article is quite interesting. If you have an account, you'll be able to read the article. But if you don't, let me know and I'll email it to you.

Read rest of article: Armory Scandal: Marc Jacobs Intl. in Bribery Probe

Obsession of the day: YSL Leopard Print Scarf

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I normally am intimidated of prints because they're too loud for me, even though I do enjoy bright colors. But big pieces of prints are...something I'm not used to. I'll probably change my mind after my first fur coat. But until then, I'll settle for something more subtle. I like this print because the colors aren't so loud. It's a little milky. I like that the scarf has a vintage feel for it. Also, it's affordable since it's only 139.62 USD.

Buy Product: YSL Leopard Print Scarf (139.62USD)

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

Halston Women Fall/Winter 2008: All Flop and No Flip

"Halston didn't provide the big bang many in the fahsion industry were yearning for. Zanini didn't even give a bang. Many were left feeling as though it was just another fashion show on the schedule. After I blogged yesterday, even with his statement that he recognizes that archives can prove to be dangerous, he fell into the hole he thought he recognized and tried to stay clear from. The pieces paid homage to Halston but did nothing more. It was like Gianfranco Ferre's Spring collection that his in-house designers did after his death.

The collection was bare minimalism, perhaps too minimalistic. The color didn't excite the viewers but just reminded the people of the weather outside, drabby and stale. The fluidity were like a wilting flower instead of lively like that of Lanvin Spring 2008. Some of the pieces seemed to swallow the models instead of the models commanding the clothes.

Even with certain pieces that were clear Halston, like the long soft skirts, but there was nothing that screams Zanini and his influence. Perhaps working with Versace for so many years as Versace's first designer, he's underestimated the clients' willingness to let him take the reigns however he wish.

With this in mind, more pressure is on Alessandra Faccinetti and what she's going to do with the house of Valentino.

See rest of collection: Halston Women Fall/Winter 2008

Super Tuesday not Super Fashion

I think that's the closest Hillary has come to a dress. I think when Hillary was born, her mother had a tailor on hand to make her daughter a suit.

Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune wrote an article on the progression of women in offices and how that affects, or might possibly so, dictates women's fashion in America. Women globally, more particularly in the US are obtaining high office jobs and becoming equals to their counterparts.

Menkes interestingly touches on how the election is overshadowing Marc Jacob's slow to being the last show for New York Fashion week and the most-anticipated revival of the house of Halston, which was mediocre.

The women are in the office and they want to be taken seriously. Tradition says that women must be formal, wear feminate suits. However, in recent trends there are houses like Zegna that are offering tailored suits to women. Similarly, there has been a noticeable increase in suit jackets in women's collection. Ironically, the pants are no where in sight, but high skirts are. Menkes touches on the clear move of designers being concious of this movement.

I, however, am conflicted. Tradition may require women to be taken seriously but is a suit required? I would love to see someone confidently enter a room in a dress, or something less feminate and structured, unless in the Balenciaga-structured sense. I think women have advanced and evolved enough to command a sense of respect without immitating men. I am not against suits, but there's no need to be drab and monotone. Instead of an androgynous suit why not put on something that's more decorated like a Chanel Tweed jacket, a colorful skirt, or a Lanvin blooming blouse?

Oftentimes people like to stay in their comfort zone but I live by the Foucault believe that in order for progression to take place, one has to jump into the unknown. One can't grow if one's static and content. Perhaps it's my ADD that makes me bored of a situation often instantly, and constantly yearning for changes. I don't think the time for women to "prove" themselves are still a struggling movement. With that, I don't think women should compromise themselves and their beauty. There's nothing wrong with a little color and fluff in a sea of dark blue and pin-striped suits.

Read article: Fashion headlines pale in comparison to U.S. political campaign

Monday, February 4, 2008

Halston '08: Revival or Denial?

Halston was one of the most acclaimed designers of the 70s. A favorite of movie stars, socialites, the general public, and a favorite at studio54. His design were chic minimalism. The clothes were simple and elegant.

After a few years dormant, and six designers later, a known media investor, a media-famed stylist come together to revive the brand. Will they succeed? All eyes are on the Fall/Winter 2008 show tonight.

Marco Zanini is the sixth designer to try and accomplish what five other couldn't do. What's different this time? The world of celebrities are back with the media influence stronger than ever. Who else could contribute to make a hopeful team? Rachel Zoe, celebrity stylist known for her anorexic, mannequin-like celebrities coterie. She's been known to drench her clients in Halston so many could see why she's on the board in revitalizing the brand. To complete the team, Harvey Weinstein stepped on board. With his wife, Georgina Chapman, a designer of Marchesa, Harvey is not newcomer to the fashion industry. He hopes this investment will rival that of Tom Ford at Gucci.

New York Times has a great article on the history of Halston and their interpretation of the spring look, along with the house allowing Halston lovers to purcahse the collection 24 hours after showing. Do read it.

Read Article: Will 6 Be a Lucky Number for Halston?

As iconic as the house of Halston and the nostalgia of style past, I'm not sure this team will be able to pull it off in an ultra-fresh manner that is expected of it. However, if Zanini is able to present a collection that touches on the simplistic elegance of Halston, that will be interesting. Calvin Klein have been one of the few American designer that is known for that so to see if Halston is able to come afloat and establish their trademark and make it modern, it will definately have a strong market. In the article Zanini recognized that the archive of Halston, though great, can be of a hindrance. Since he recognizes that, it is hopeful that perhaps he will be the one to be able to accomplish what other were'nt able to do. Besides, with Rachel Zoe and Weinstein on board, it's already looking more promising than past attempts.

We will see...

Friday, February 1, 2008

WWD'S The Storm Is Coming Pictures

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Women's Wear Daily captured these fun pictures of designers as they're preparing for New York Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2008. There's over 26 pictures designers trying clothes on models, making phone calls, putting finishing touches on their pieces, etc. The three I've posted are examples of some of the pictures available. It's cute - some of the pictures. I posted the link at the bottom so you can go browse through some of the pictures. You don't have to be a member to view the pictures because I was able to see the pictures without logging into my account.

Zac Posen is so cute and he seems so personable. He's also a great constructionist. No wonder's he's a favorite among many New York Socialites. He always dress well too.

Oscar de la Renta constructed 62 looks, over 100 pieces for his pre-fall 2008 collection. Imagine how serious he took his pre-fall collection. I'm curious as to what his fall 2008 collection is going to be. Is there going to be over 500 pieces? Probably not. But still. That man is really dedicated and to churn out over 60 pieces a collection, let alone a sub-collection since it's not the main one is pretty amazing. The ideas that he have...My friend, Nik, said that imagination is based on how much you know so that you could reference them. So the more imagination you have, the more creative ideas you would have. Oscar De La Renta clearly has that experience that will allow him to keep turning out amazing clothes till...he retires, assuming that he will. He probably has an archive so that after he retires the house could function for another century. Hah.

As for Tommy Hilfiger, this is his third seasonal comeback so everyone is still seeing if it really will be a comeback. The past two seasons were totally Hilfiger through the colors, that sub-muted pastel colors that's American. Judging on what he's holding up, he'll still provide that conservative, Savannah porch, "American-Pride" color lines style that the designer is known for.

See other pictures: WWD's The Storm Is Coming

Obsession of the day: Raf Simons

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How fun does those shoes look? The shoes gives this holographic look, which is definately futuristic if you as me in regards to concept. I love the colors and the black linings. I'm normally not a fan of high-tops, at least not since high school, but I haven't wanted a high-top like these since...well, high school. I can picture it looking great with a park of dark blue jeans, or anything. I love that it has this sky-blue, cloud effect going on. The colors also changes with each movement so yeah. I don't know how else to praise this except I want it; I need it now. Except it's on sale and there's no longer my size. But if you are a size 6 or 7, UK Standard, I recommend getting these.

Buy Shoes Here: Raf Simons Two Tone Strap Boot (was 299euro, now 104euro)

Impulse Thoughts


With Lanvin Spring 2008 having great praise for the grecian, flightly and airy collection last season that everyone adored, and also praised by many buyers of chain stores, be sure to keep a look out to who will piggy-back ride to boost some profits.

For Balenciaga Spring 2008, Nicholas Ghesquiere, designer, raised the bar and shone the light on structure. There's definatley a push towards what is new, what is the future. It's interesting to see the insights that will either support Ghesquiere's outlook or inject the market with a new "ooh la la."

Spring was flower power raised to the max, or in mathematical connotation, flower^infinity. However, it wasn't just regular flowers but more artistic inspired flower prints. They were suggestive but the petals weren't defined. Will the "flower prints" be carried over to fall?

Spring of art-inspired things, a big trend for Spring 2008 was paint-splattered textiles like the dresses from Dolce & Gabbana 2008.

Basically, keep a look out for those who will mimic the top houses' designs and construction in the spring, and keep a look out for the innovative new leaders. There's been a huge injection of new talents and reincarnation of houses, like Bill Blass. There's also new designers taking over notorious houses, like Valentino and its new artistic creator Alessandra Facchinetti. Fall is definately a season of changes, big changes. There's a lot of things going on in regard to changes not within the fashion industry but in the economy. I'll be sure to highlight what I see the best I can. Stay tune and do look out for huge changes!!

Rachel Roy Women Fall/Winter 2008

Favorites from collection:
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I love the color that she's using. It's rusting iron mixed with a touch of metallics, almost referencing one of those saturated orange tomato. The girls are so chic with the high waist pinch and I love the jacket in the second look with the bottom two buttons. I also love the skirt in the fifth look - the skirt will go well with almost everything. Feather played a big role in last season with McQueen, Proenza Schouler, among other collections and it seems like Roy is playing with it as accessories. I like the exoticness that the feathers and colors conjure. I could see this editorial where the girls are standing on a vocanol with a stream of lava going down while the girls are just nonchalantly putting on their make-up. A less extreme situation would be seeing these clothes at gallery openings. The clothes are definitely an upper-east side classic, conservative, but fun favorite.

See Rest of collection: Rachel Roy Women Fall/Winter 2008

Vera Wang Lavender Label Women Fall/Winter 2008

Favorites from Collection:
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So I knew there's a pseudo-recession going on but I didn't it was that depressing. Just kidding. Vera introduced her more affordable brand, lavendar Label, and it really cute. The mood is confidence but glamour. Young but not intimidated by fur. The colors are a little muted but the girls are modern in subtle ways - mainly the construction. The skirt in the first picture has a subtle volume to it, pinched a little at the top but it doesn't close in like recent structures for skirts. It's almost structured and geometric but not necessarily, but there's definitely a directness to them.

I love that jacket wit hthe fur short sleeve. Shoulders need to be kept warm too. This collection is supposed to be affordable and if it is, for that jacket to look the way it is, you'll sure fool people on your income. What's great about this collection is that though it is not Vera Wang's name, the label still has a rich feel to it. Especially some use of pearls in the collection. That look in the last one doesn't scream petty shopper, or kmart lovers. It's a woman that's going to an art gallery followed by a semi-formal dinner. I just like it when a designer understands that those with a less disposable income also wants to wear their name.

Only question is does genuine matter? Does Vera really care for those with lesser income but wants her clothes or she's recognizing the trend in the economy and wants to provide a collection that's more affordable so people aren't scared in spending? I say I want that fur-short sleeved jacket. Because when it comes to fashion, if something looks and feel good and looks good on you, buy it no matter what the price. Though of course, don't refinance your house for it, unless it's a Dior Couture gown from the 50s.

See rest of collection: Vera Wang Lavender Label Women Fall/Winter 2008

Elie Tahari Women Fall/Winter 2008

Favorites from collection:
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I just wrote an entry on how women's suit and more formal dressing, aka business woman will be a dominant archetype for Fall 2008. It's flair leg is also making a comeback. It was seen on Katie Holmes, Victoria Beckham, both of whom aren't exactly fashion gurus, but influencers in the past six months. I like them because they elongate the legs, especially when added with a cropped jacket like the last woman is wearing. Whenever a sleeved is shorter than the wrist, it elongates the torso because it gives it the illusion of someone who out-grew their clothes, but not in a bad way! Also, I love how the jacket on the last girl is structured with that pattern. I wonder what matterial it's made out of or it was just super starched.

Either way, what is this woman portraying? My husband is in a hedge fund and I'm going to support him because by dressing like this, I demand a serious attitude. However, I'm hungry and I want to go have lunch with my girlfriends to show off my new jacket.

See rest of collection: Elie Tahari Women Fall/Winter 2008

Boy by Band of Outsiders Women Fall/Winter 2008

Favorites from Show:
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I love this collection, all 12 wardrobes of it. It's nothing new. It's grunge, dark, hip new-york girl. The nude camel- color introduced or injected by miuccia prada two seasons ago - is becoming popular, as you can see in the jacket(2). Bands of Outsiders are an up and coming favorite for people, so it's interesting that such a young brand has already stretched themselves through a sub-brand, Boy.

The name says it. The polos, the jackets, all androgynous but with that "hipster" feel. It's as though they're all going to a concert or some basement party. What gave it that feel? The plaid patterns and the sock gloves. Overall there's nothing new but the presentation touches on the trend right now so it's definately markeatble and will sell.

Also, notice the shoes. They're so cute! Tuxedo shoes. I think they're heels. They bring that casual formality that makes things understated, but is a necessary touch.

See rest of collection: Boy by Band of Outsiders Women Fall/Winter 2008