Quick Though: Stefano Pilati & Couture

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So congruent with my post previous to this one, I was praising Pilati and his work at Yves Saint Laurent (YSL). And I realized why won't they let him venture into couture? Isn't that a pleasant idea? He clearly has control of the fabrics with his minimalism structure pieces and sharp lines. If he wanted to, he could rival Nicolas Ghesquiere's Balenciaga pieces. (Which reminds me, I'll do a comparison between YSL and Balenciaga in a future post).

I think Stefano Pilati would be a great couture-r. I believe since he's still only been the director for a short period, the big bosses still wants to see if he's able to carry out more editor's top favorite seasons. If so, then they'll give him reign to do couture. Also, the world of couture is expensive and not as lucrative as pret-a-porters, but I think with recent collections, YSL's income should stabilize and give Pilati a chance. I imagine Valentino but more formal and futuristic. No? Valentino has that minimalistic decadence, but it's often feminine and soft, in both structure and color.

But if I was given the chance to decide whether Pilati should be in charge of that, hands down Pilati has my vote.

Source: Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2008 | Balenciaga Fall 2008

Case Study: Maison Martin Margiela VS YSL, & More

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One way to differentiate between the greats and the novice is through detailing. I love looking at the detailed pictures and seeing how the fabric is manipulated; where the lines are placed; and how these small things add to the ensemble as a whole. One of the thing I love about Stefano Pilati is his ability to make pictures quietly screaming minimalism. It's that deafening pitch where you can't hear it but it impacts you. Or at least for me, this is the case. From afar, his pieces are strung together with a fluidity of bareness, no elaborate flashes of juxtaposed fabric mediums that makes it uncomfortable to the eye. Everything just seems to fit, like it belong with a certain elegance. It's a woman of confidence that knows that in the world, you don't need much, and less is more. (Ironic, however, you need money for this minimalism. haha).

But in regards to this sleeve, I love the black lining of it and the sliver that exposes the arm almost to the shoulder. It's sort of poetic because the ensembles carry a serious tone, along with the mood that's given from the presentation of the models, but the sliver provides a playful tone to it - a certain vulnerability. In most conservative cultures, excess skin is not encouraged, but this creeping line accentuates the playfulness of femininity. I just love the complication of Pilati's pieces and the quiet decadence that's intertwined with the pieces.

This can also be seen in the sunglasses that went along with the collection. It reminded me of Maison Martin Margiela's blackmarker sunglasses from Spring 2008 collection, but it's a little more personal than Margiela's. Where Margiela's sunglasses are supposed to eradicate the personal by totally wiping out the eye (this is how most identity are removed, "black marker across the eye"), Pilati's YSL sunglasses adds character to the wearer. The nose is given more exposure and the eyes are given more individual shape than the (Margiela's) bare rectangle that crosses the face. While Margiela's woman are more defined by the clothes, YSL's sunglasses attribute to the personal of its wearer in conjunction with the clothes.

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(Maison Martin Margiela)


(Yves Saint Laurent)


Source: Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2008 | Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2008

Halston Women Fall/Winter 2008: All Flop and No Flip

"Halston didn't provide the big bang many in the fahsion industry were yearning for. Zanini didn't even give a bang. Many were left feeling as though it was just another fashion show on the schedule. After I blogged yesterday, even with his statement that he recognizes that archives can prove to be dangerous, he fell into the hole he thought he recognized and tried to stay clear from. The pieces paid homage to Halston but did nothing more. It was like Gianfranco Ferre's Spring collection that his in-house designers did after his death.

The collection was bare minimalism, perhaps too minimalistic. The color didn't excite the viewers but just reminded the people of the weather outside, drabby and stale. The fluidity were like a wilting flower instead of lively like that of Lanvin Spring 2008. Some of the pieces seemed to swallow the models instead of the models commanding the clothes.

Even with certain pieces that were clear Halston, like the long soft skirts, but there was nothing that screams Zanini and his influence. Perhaps working with Versace for so many years as Versace's first designer, he's underestimated the clients' willingness to let him take the reigns however he wish.

With this in mind, more pressure is on Alessandra Faccinetti and what she's going to do with the house of Valentino.

See rest of collection: Halston Women Fall/Winter 2008

Halston '08: Revival or Denial?

Halston was one of the most acclaimed designers of the 70s. A favorite of movie stars, socialites, the general public, and a favorite at studio54. His design were chic minimalism. The clothes were simple and elegant.

After a few years dormant, and six designers later, a known media investor, a media-famed stylist come together to revive the brand. Will they succeed? All eyes are on the Fall/Winter 2008 show tonight.

Marco Zanini is the sixth designer to try and accomplish what five other couldn't do. What's different this time? The world of celebrities are back with the media influence stronger than ever. Who else could contribute to make a hopeful team? Rachel Zoe, celebrity stylist known for her anorexic, mannequin-like celebrities coterie. She's been known to drench her clients in Halston so many could see why she's on the board in revitalizing the brand. To complete the team, Harvey Weinstein stepped on board. With his wife, Georgina Chapman, a designer of Marchesa, Harvey is not newcomer to the fashion industry. He hopes this investment will rival that of Tom Ford at Gucci.

New York Times has a great article on the history of Halston and their interpretation of the spring look, along with the house allowing Halston lovers to purcahse the collection 24 hours after showing. Do read it.

Read Article: Will 6 Be a Lucky Number for Halston?

As iconic as the house of Halston and the nostalgia of style past, I'm not sure this team will be able to pull it off in an ultra-fresh manner that is expected of it. However, if Zanini is able to present a collection that touches on the simplistic elegance of Halston, that will be interesting. Calvin Klein have been one of the few American designer that is known for that so to see if Halston is able to come afloat and establish their trademark and make it modern, it will definately have a strong market. In the article Zanini recognized that the archive of Halston, though great, can be of a hindrance. Since he recognizes that, it is hopeful that perhaps he will be the one to be able to accomplish what other were'nt able to do. Besides, with Rachel Zoe and Weinstein on board, it's already looking more promising than past attempts.

We will see...

Rachel Roy Women Fall/Winter 2008

Favorites from collection:
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I love the color that she's using. It's rusting iron mixed with a touch of metallics, almost referencing one of those saturated orange tomato. The girls are so chic with the high waist pinch and I love the jacket in the second look with the bottom two buttons. I also love the skirt in the fifth look - the skirt will go well with almost everything. Feather played a big role in last season with McQueen, Proenza Schouler, among other collections and it seems like Roy is playing with it as accessories. I like the exoticness that the feathers and colors conjure. I could see this editorial where the girls are standing on a vocanol with a stream of lava going down while the girls are just nonchalantly putting on their make-up. A less extreme situation would be seeing these clothes at gallery openings. The clothes are definitely an upper-east side classic, conservative, but fun favorite.

See Rest of collection: Rachel Roy Women Fall/Winter 2008

Vera Wang Lavender Label Women Fall/Winter 2008

Favorites from Collection:
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So I knew there's a pseudo-recession going on but I didn't it was that depressing. Just kidding. Vera introduced her more affordable brand, lavendar Label, and it really cute. The mood is confidence but glamour. Young but not intimidated by fur. The colors are a little muted but the girls are modern in subtle ways - mainly the construction. The skirt in the first picture has a subtle volume to it, pinched a little at the top but it doesn't close in like recent structures for skirts. It's almost structured and geometric but not necessarily, but there's definitely a directness to them.

I love that jacket wit hthe fur short sleeve. Shoulders need to be kept warm too. This collection is supposed to be affordable and if it is, for that jacket to look the way it is, you'll sure fool people on your income. What's great about this collection is that though it is not Vera Wang's name, the label still has a rich feel to it. Especially some use of pearls in the collection. That look in the last one doesn't scream petty shopper, or kmart lovers. It's a woman that's going to an art gallery followed by a semi-formal dinner. I just like it when a designer understands that those with a less disposable income also wants to wear their name.

Only question is does genuine matter? Does Vera really care for those with lesser income but wants her clothes or she's recognizing the trend in the economy and wants to provide a collection that's more affordable so people aren't scared in spending? I say I want that fur-short sleeved jacket. Because when it comes to fashion, if something looks and feel good and looks good on you, buy it no matter what the price. Though of course, don't refinance your house for it, unless it's a Dior Couture gown from the 50s.

See rest of collection: Vera Wang Lavender Label Women Fall/Winter 2008

Elie Tahari Women Fall/Winter 2008

Favorites from collection:
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I just wrote an entry on how women's suit and more formal dressing, aka business woman will be a dominant archetype for Fall 2008. It's flair leg is also making a comeback. It was seen on Katie Holmes, Victoria Beckham, both of whom aren't exactly fashion gurus, but influencers in the past six months. I like them because they elongate the legs, especially when added with a cropped jacket like the last woman is wearing. Whenever a sleeved is shorter than the wrist, it elongates the torso because it gives it the illusion of someone who out-grew their clothes, but not in a bad way! Also, I love how the jacket on the last girl is structured with that pattern. I wonder what matterial it's made out of or it was just super starched.

Either way, what is this woman portraying? My husband is in a hedge fund and I'm going to support him because by dressing like this, I demand a serious attitude. However, I'm hungry and I want to go have lunch with my girlfriends to show off my new jacket.

See rest of collection: Elie Tahari Women Fall/Winter 2008

Boy by Band of Outsiders Women Fall/Winter 2008

Favorites from Show:
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I love this collection, all 12 wardrobes of it. It's nothing new. It's grunge, dark, hip new-york girl. The nude camel- color introduced or injected by miuccia prada two seasons ago - is becoming popular, as you can see in the jacket(2). Bands of Outsiders are an up and coming favorite for people, so it's interesting that such a young brand has already stretched themselves through a sub-brand, Boy.

The name says it. The polos, the jackets, all androgynous but with that "hipster" feel. It's as though they're all going to a concert or some basement party. What gave it that feel? The plaid patterns and the sock gloves. Overall there's nothing new but the presentation touches on the trend right now so it's definately markeatble and will sell.

Also, notice the shoes. They're so cute! Tuxedo shoes. I think they're heels. They bring that casual formality that makes things understated, but is a necessary touch.

See rest of collection: Boy by Band of Outsiders Women Fall/Winter 2008