Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Paint Me Silly, Vmag

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Jessica Stam & Luke Worrall shot by Steven Klein is following the trend of paint and color splashing. I think this is my favorite so far because it's such a beautiful editorial. I also love Vmagazine for incorporating men and womenswear, blurring the line and further encouraging androgyny. Clothes can be sexless, it's the social impositions that differentiate what is and isn't, what's male and female. Although I'm not that avant garde in wearing dresses and printed gowns, I still think Luke Warrall is beautiful in the pictures and clothes.

Source: Vmagazine.com

Anne Valérie Hash Couture Spring 2008: Still Young, Still Nude


Well if you know me, you know I Love illusory things. I love the first look, followed by the detailed look and how one is so different than the other. What's even amazing about this collection is that at first sight, it doesn't seem as though the pieces are see-through, but they are. It's this irony that I adore Anne Valérie Hash. I love that the clothes are see through but from a distant they're not. From a distance the clothes look simple, basic, but at a closer look it is engulfed with details and masterful fabric manipulation. Her concepts and construction, especially the geometric folds are just so masterful, supporting her credentials as a couturier.

See the rest of the collection: Anne Valérie Hash Couture Spring 2008

Porcelain is in, the skin color that is


[Image credit: Style.com

If you're like me, you're probably over the tan crazed faze. Unless you're Argentenian or Brazilian or along the border of the equator, you should not look like you've been colored on with a light brown magic Crayola marker.

I even think Giorgio Armani and Valentino is over the crazed faze. Versace's skin is even showing sign of life instead of cracked clay. Even so, it doesn't mean I want them to have pale, vampire skin, which is totally in right now(vampire that is). However, their tan is more natural. Versace, Valentino and Armani do no get into their Bentley and go to Hollywood or Beverly Hill tan, they tan on their yachts. Like my friend's friend said,"Tanning on a boat is different than tanning in a bed with heated lights because of the reflection of the water." So unless you tan on a floaty in your swimming pool, please run to your nearest CVS and purchase the most porcelain foundation and concealer, white-out if you're dramatic and apply it all over your face and any skin that shows.

I'm kidding. But seriously, pale isn't back, but porcelain skin is. Since exclusivity is making a comeback and that's where high fashion is moving towards now, back to their roots, exclusive ideas of upper class are also coming back.

Tan used to be associated with those who work the fields, the outside, the help, the farmers, those with low income. Those with a lighter skin tone means you're able to enjoy lounging about in your home. This then changed when royalties started vacationing on the Mediterraneans. The tone of the tan was different; it was less dark that those that work outside. Tanning then became a status symbol of luxury because it meant you could vacation.

The idea of tan has now shifted again. If you go to the east, you could ask any asian culture and they will tell you that lighter skin is preferred to darker skin. That is if you ask someone that is older than 35. With the current shift in culture focus, from the west to the east, and the movement back to exclusivity and class, and Dita Von Teese(hah), lighter skin is now in the mode.

So, thought I share that little history with you and tell you to stop fake tanning because you'll just be out of trend, which is worst than getting cancer, which you also have a high chance of if you artificially tan, or tan for real. Basically stop tanning. Thanks.

Cat-Power (not the singer)


John Galliano for Christian Dior and Christian Lacroix played with Cavalli's prints for their couture collection, only one piece each though. I love Dior's leopard prints and how it looks on the Dior volume dress. Even down to the shoes reference claws and her bright eyebrows highlights fierceness. Dior's Savannah cat is not one to be messed with, just worn. Hah!

Lacroix's cat is product of a zoo whose kept their animals together one day since the cages were being clean. The cheetah prints, the zebra shoes. It's less elegant than Dior but more playful. I don't know which one to prefer but if I had to choose I think I would go with Lacroix since it just seems younger for me. When I'm 25 and decide to have a sex change for something and can afford a couture gown, I'll opt for the Dior.

Photo Source: Style.com

Give in to Givenchy Couture Spring 2008


When I hear Givenchy, I think of dark elegance with structure, but presented in a light way. Does that make sense? With that in mind, that's exactly what Riccardo Tisci gave for his Givenchy Couture Spring 2008 collection. The clothes were tailored and the wearer unintimidated. I picture L'wren Scott, fashion stylist, strutting about in them with her lean figure as though she's ready to stomp on anyone that dare gives her a dirty look. It's like a Karl Lagerfeld with a bitchy, wrinkle-free face in 6" heels.

Ok, that may be a bad image but that's what comes to mind for me. As fearless as the clothes make the wearer, it's presented in a romantic soft way. Tisci said the collection was very much a "dark ballerina," which is clear in the plume of folds and wind-tossed feathers. The third outfit in the picture above reminds me of Doo.Ri's notorious signature tight-wrapping and folding.

See rest of collection: Givenchy Couture Spring 2008 Collection

Christian Lacroix Couture=Valentino+Nina Ricci


Perhaps Christian Lacroix is paying homage to his retiring comrade. Valentino Couture show is set for today and everyone and their mistress is waiting for it. It's his last one. But I digress. I love this beautiful red dress from Lacroix Couture Spring 2008. I love that it closes in at the leg instead of trailing behind or touching the ground. It gives it an ethereal appeal. I said Valentino because there's that sensuality to it along with that Valentino red. And I said Nina Ricci because of the structured draping and ruffles like what Olivier Theyskens (Nina Ricci's current designer) did for Fall 2007. The structure of the dress also reference Galliano's dark romanticism of his Fall 2007 collection. I guess this dress could represent a mutated, but beautiful child of a threesome.

See rest of collection: Christian Lacroix Couture SPring 2008

She sells seashell in her Chanel

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When Karl Lagerfeld went vacationing in Saint Tropez, after prancing about with his neck high, hands joined with Brad, he stumbled on some little girl collecting seashells and he thought, my little princcipessa (princess in Italian), you've inspired me for my couture show. And that's what brought about Chanel Couture SPring 2008. The folds and accesories screamed shells. Chanel was a clam, and the clothes were its pearls. The structure was stiff like the ridges of a shell, and I would like to think Karl is trying to tell me, or us, that there's life under the sea, which in this case means the east. Haha. Mini skirts makes the Japanese school girls scream, along with the flats making Amy Winehouse scream along with every American who love flats.

Now say it with me as quickly as you can for at least six consecutive time: She sells seashell in her Chanel.


So unless you have a wooping $500+ to dish out on a hair band, you better run to your nearest seashore or online seastore and start collecting those shells and strand them. I'm sure yours won't be as good and well made as Chanel's but, you'll be "ahead" of the trend. (Side note: extra brownie points for whomever brave enough integrate a conch into their brooch, headband, and/or whatever.)

See rest of collection: Chanel Couture Spring 2008

Lanvin Spring/Summer 2008

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Do I even need to say anything? The colors are amazing. The way the dresses are depicted are amazing. It's like a high fashion still shot of the movie 300. I love it. Olga Shere's complexion was also a good choice to highlight the colors of the dress too. I love Lanvin and Elbaz.

Source: facebook group: Phenom | It-That-This, Is Phenom(enal)
Visit House Website: Lanvin.com

West to East

With the flailing about of the US economy, recession materializing and US people scared to be more materialistic, high fashion is tailoring to a new market.

Russian references at various fashion houses, Asian school girl short skirts, injection of asian models on the runway, modern Kimono structure, and asian prints and colors. Gucci, Dior, Chanel are the major houses that is pioneering this movement. Other will follow, which will be seen in other collection for Fall 2008, and other smaller ones will most likely follow suit for Spring 2009.

Millionaires and billionaires are popping up like a strand of super chicken pox and measles in the east, mainly India, Russia and China. I used a viral disease because it also seems contagious, the increase in individual wealth and increase in number of those individuals. Most of them are silent and less flamboyant than those in the west. Asian women and those in the east are appearing more in not just the runway, but the audience. A prime example is the latest Chanel Couture show. Devon Aoki closing a show is not a coincidence, it's strategic marketing ploy to attract more Asian women to be interested in Chanel.

There's a shift in global interest. There has been an exponential grow of interest in Asian art and travel. Economic wise, China has had a new government change where a younger generation is coming in place. A generation that is more knowledgeable and up-to-date with global issues. China's economist rivals Greenspan and Bernanke. South Korea, a somewhat overlooked country is starting to wake up. There's just A LOT of activity in the east and everything is reflecting that. There's a new toy, the east, for everyone to play with, which is what is happening in shifting interest.

I'll write more about this but just wanted to share what I thought was interesting in the effect of global economy on the fashion industry.

To be continue...

Couture-off Spring 2008


Which gown would you like for your sweet sixteen?

Me? Why not both? Entrance with the Lacroix and change mid-way into Chanel. I think I should be a stylist for MTV's Super Sweet 16. Those children know diddly squat(nothing).

But seriously, these gowns probably took over 450 hours each to make. The intricate detail, sculpting, gems and jewels. I love the Lacroix's collar and how it accentuates her arms, or skeleton of an arm. What you're supposed to do is take it as it is, or take what you like it and alter the rest. For the Lacroix dress, I would take everything from where her hand meets up, and then from that point on, just have the dress fall directly down into a flowing gown. Maybe by doing that I'll also get 20000USD off of the price since less labor??

For the Chanel, I love the jewels and gems embroideries and the volume so I want to keep that. I would just shorten the trail and make it fall around my waist as well, but still with a little volume. Don't get me wrong, the dresses themselves are spectacular and if I was 6'2+ I would wear them, but for me, I will have to settle for slender silhouettes to stretch out my body average length body. Basically the dresses would turn out like below:



Picture Source: Style.com

Caption Game: Backstage at Christian Lacroix Couture Spring 2008

Backstage at Christian Lacroix Couture Spring 2008

Make up artist: Pout like this for me while I fill in your face craters. Yes, pout like this. Keep doing it.

Source: Style.com

"Omg, that Britney's Shameless"


Do you think in Britney's Piece of Me song, the lyrics that says "omg, that Britney's Shameless" was referring to her acts or her wardrobe? I think most of it is her wardrobe. I don't even understand where her style comes from. Influence wise. It's not L.A. scene, Hollywood glamor, or Louisiana southern Belle (this style is basically Hollister TShirt, Hollister tote, Hollister everything, like her little pregnant sister. JK! about the everything, maybe UGG shoes...). Her wardrobe malfunctions a little bit too much to be considered malfunction. It seems like her style is malfunctioning too.

As a fan, I'm hopeful and forced to believed that she understands the media's attention on her so she dresses this way to give the media what they want. But, she leads a different life at home. At home, she wears Chanel tweed jacket in her Library filled with first editions of Wittgenstein's Logisch-Philosophische Abhandlung, deconstructionist, existentialist, logical positivist works, sippin' on a mojito because she likes the mint and sugarcane taste. She sleeps in a Pucci gown, shower, brush her teeth and change into a Christian Lacroix couture gown for breakfast, which consist of a baguette and butter freshly shipped from Paris in the morning, followed by changing into her public costume. A Britney Spears fan, fashion fanatic can hope.

Source: X17online.com (DUH!)

Messagerie Spring/Summer 2008

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I always loved Messagerie. It's like Diesel, but not overrated and more thought out in presentation and design. If you know me, you know I like the layered but clean look.

That jumpsuit on the other hand. If I was a gay(or "post-metrosexual") car technician, I would totally be over it. Something about wearing a jumpsuit in public no longer appeals to me after that J-Lo era. Some people are trying to bring it back but...I don't know. I remember seeing it at Sears in 2005 and I turned to my friend and said overalls and jumpsuit are sadly going to be making a comeback in the next 5 years. She thought I was joking, but I'm getting the last laugh now, but in a sad way. Some trends predictions you kind of hope you're wrong on. YA KNOW?

I digress. I wonder what Messagerie's photographer told Douglas Reich to accentuate when he was in the overall. Did the photographer said ,"GIVE ME CAR TECHNICIAN!" and Douglas Reich, the model by the way, decided to pose like that. Whatever it may be, it makes me want to quit business school and become a car technician-just so I could look that fabulous.

Source: Messagerie.com

Zegna Spring/Summer 2008

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When I'm in my 30s with assets exceeding 500gs, annual income of 100gs+, I will be a Zegna man. The tailored suit screams class. Zegna's elegance aesthetic appeal and their craftsmanship are notorious in the fashion industry, for the more mature generation. The younger one associates themselves more with D&G, Dior Homme, Jil Sander, etc.

These ads make me want to be a great mind, makes me want to have Zegna suits lined up in my Goyard chest for travels, makes me want to wear them after having the dry cleaner super starch them so after closing a deal in China, I could doubly, wear them on the great wall of china and frolick with Chinese children, whose wardrobes are also pristine and immaculate.

After my young and foolish, carefree phase, I want to be a Zegna man. I want to be a Zegna man now but finances and tailoring doesn't allow it. Yet.

Source: Zegna.com

Obsession of the Day: Damier Louis Vuitton Loafers


The name of the shoe? Dynamique Loafer. Hah. I want to be a namer of products.

I digress.

The smooth calf leather, the Damier pattern on the vamp! I just image what it looks like looking down on it and seeing that Damier moka lacquer shinning back at me. It's a tad pricey($680), but it's Louis.

But for that same, price I rather get this Dior Homme shirt and wallet:
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Buy products seen here: Dior Mesh Jersey Tee (365USD), Dior Multicolored Canvas Bi-Fold Wallet (365USD), Louis Vuitton Dynamique Loafer (680USD)

Eluxury heavy traffic at 9:06am eastern central

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So I check eluxury regulary, daily, hourly, half-hourly. I'm sort of obsessed - or bored. But When I was checking it just a few minutes ago, their main page was up, but when I saw these Louis Vuitton Loafers with the checkered prints on them, after clicking, it led me to that page. How horrible! Requesting me to check back later? That's unheard of. Ok. I'm dramatic but I was excited because they're putting up the spring stuff right now and I wanted to see what I can, or most of the products, can't afford. Hope the site is up so I could show you my shoe obsession of the day.

Source: Eluxury.com

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Christian Dior Couture Spring 2008

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At Christian Dior, the girls never weigh less than 100 lbs each.

John Galliano put out another couture show to accentuate his mastery in volume and detail. This dramatic muted pastel colors referenced the east, and the work seemed like a surpressed holding of his Maddamn Butterfly couture for Spring 2007 synthesized with his Couture Fall 2007 show. This time, it moved a little bit more north with a reference of Vienna's Klimt shapes and color.

What first came to mind for me, however, was exotic flowers. Especially this one:

It made sense to me because his Spring collection was quiet, and this seemed to be the unflowering, or deflowing of the Spring collection. To me, it's as though he was telling the Dior fan that his craftmanship has not gone dormant and he has not grown content like it seemed with his Spring 2008 collection.

Though this collection was true to his nature, it seemed like a transitional collection because it didn't inject something new and grandiose like his normal couture collection. Galliano prefers his workers to call him Master, and it is clear through his construction, his collections, and the fluidity of the whole house season to season that he is worthy of that name.

See rest of collection: Christian Dior Couture Spring 2008

Caption Game: Noah Mills

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Reporter Grace: What is your view on the Fed's 3/4 of 1% interest rate cut?
Noah Mills: Well. When I first heard the news this morning, I was playing with the number on my excel spreedsheet(on my Iphone). And you know what's funny? The number came out really weird but I think it's going to be OK Grace. It will be ok.

Good Morning

Backstage at John Galliano Fall/Winter 2008
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So I started school today and lately I've been pretty much busy with my other jobs at school and helping pick out some clothes for my clients. I've also been busy getting ready for school. But I promise, I will post all of the men show I can find and those shows that I've been absent on.

Best,

Henri

p.s. As a token of my lateness, I thought you guys would appreciate Terron Wood and Andre Ziehe (above) and the snaps of Andre Ziehe (below), two of whom are my favorite male models. Love you. And I wanted to accentuate how great a neon pink underwear could look, of course.

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Monday, January 21, 2008

Mix-N-Match; Lavin Karan


Is it me or when I mix these two pieces, the detailed full skirt from Donna Karen and Lanvin's voluminous petal Lanvin top, it looks like a Carolina Herrera outfit? Heh. I love the Lavin silk flower top because it's so light looking. Even though a shoulder is bare, the top still radiates class. It comes close to even possibly replacing the white button up blouse/shirt. I could see someone from Vogue wearing this to work nonchalantly. I love how the look looks easy and effortless. The floral pattern on the skirt reference the floral fringe of the top. I instantly love the skirt when I first saw it and as I was going through Lanvin, I saw how they went well with each other. This look also accentuates feminity since the volumes of the skirt and the top highlights the cinch of the waist.

One rule to remember when trying to look effortless is to look clean, which means light colors. Sometimes, if you're wearing two pieces (instead of a dress) and you want to stand out and look effortless and airy, just throw on a new pair of white shirt or a bottom that is white (white skirt, white pants, white jeans). (Please note, there's a difference between neon colors and light saturated colors). And when wearing a light piece, like something white or light, bright yellow, one do one piece. Two pieces of the same color is too much, which is fine if you're looking for attention since your parents didn't give you any when you were little. Just remember it's negative attention.

Simple Examples(please note these are literal, of course there are exceptions):
1. Black top+black bottom+x=good outfit
x=white shoes and/or white belt and/or white pearls

2. neon yellow skirt+neon yellow top=GROSS
neon yellow skirt+white lanvin top=Better

3. pastel yellow bottom+pastel yellow=Sounds Gross
pastel yellow bottom+White button up blouse+pair of louboutin heels=Spring 2008

Rule of thumb to playing safe is to always have one piece that stands out to highlight it self, and to highlight the pieces that it's popping out from. Unless you're Parisian and into that dark, broody monotone. If you choose to do that(monotone), make sure there's One piece that pops out whether it is through the cut, or pattern.

Example:
Black jeans+black jacket+black louboutin+??=good outfit
??= black satin socks or satin shirt(black jacket goes over) or black button up shirt with tuxedo fringe going down
Example below...

[Photo Source: Satorialist.com]


Collections: Lanvin Women Spring/Summer 2008, Donna Karan Women Spring/Summer 2008